Seconds Out: Oli's latest monthly blog

With our first Royal Ascot runner on the horizon and our top hats and tails getting readied I thought in this month's blog I would catch up with a very important man in fashion to get the lowdown on what to do ahead of the main event!

Oliver Spencer is the man in charge at Favourbrook, who have dressed me for Ascot and Epsom over the last few years, indeed for those who are going to Royal Ascot to cheer Trev on you may even see a picture of me attempting to model some of the clothes on a poster. The irony of this isn't lost on me but the poster is by a set of bins.

So here is my chat with Oliver, hopefully you find some pointers in here useful ahead of RaceShare’s Royal appointment....

Oli Bell: Oli, thanks for agreeing to do this! Let’s start with the event’s style legacy - how did Ascot become a menswear pinnacle of the social calendar?

Oliver Spencer: Royal Ascot’s sartorial roots trace back to the early 19th century, when the famous dandy Beau Brummell championed morning dress for the Royal Enclosure, shaping a refined aesthetic for the Prince Regent’s circle. You can think of Brummell as the West’s first minimalist, because his view was that great style should be understated. This was quite a radical idea at the time because European nobles had been looking frankly ridiculous for the previous two centuries, dressing in flamboyant Rococo and Baroque fashions. Brummell’s legacy of elegance endures, now infused with modern individuality. Favourbrook’s designs honour this heritage, blending timeless craftsmanship with contemporary flair for today’s racegoers.

OB: What are the dress codes across Ascot’s enclosures?

OS: Each enclosure has its own rules. The Royal Enclosure demands a morning suit - black coat with cashmere stripe trousers or grey houndstooth, as well as grey and navy morning suits with matching trousers. We were actually the first to introduce the navy morning suit to the Royal Enclosure a few seasons ago. The other essentials are a waistcoat, tie, and smart black shoes, typically Oxfords. On the subject of shoes, it’s quite interesting when you look back at archive imagery from the 20s and 30s to see all the gents wearing ‘spats’ or ‘spatterdashes’ which were typically sleeves of white cloth that covered the upper of the shoes and ankles, but nobody seems to worry about them these days. Maybe they’re due a revival?! Gents must also wear a black or grey top hat in the Royal Enclosure.

The Queen Anne Enclosure requires a three-piece suit with a tie, though morning dress is also popular for elegance. The Village Enclosure mirrors this - jacket, trousers, collared shirt, and tie, with scope for bold accessories. The Windsor Enclosure is smart-casual: a blazer, chinos, and shirt suffice, but jeans and trainers are barred across all areas. Anything goes in the car park post-races, as you probably know!

OB: For the Royal Enclosure, what’s the approach to a perfect morning suit?

OS: Well the good thing is that all of our morning coats are lightweight and breathable, given they are cut from luxurious wool fabrics, as well as recycled cashmere. Wool’s breathability is critical on a warm sunny day at Ascot. Personally, I love the classic combination of a black coat paired with high-waisted cashmere-stripe trousers for tradition, while a tailored double-breasted waistcoat in a summery pastel shade offers just the right amount of contrast and confidence.

OB: How can I make my morning suit ensemble stand out tastefully?

OS: If you want to turn heads rather than stomachs then it’s all about refined details! First of all, ensuring the fit is spot on is crucial. The shoulders of the coat are the most important fit, and the tail should finish at the back of the knees. The waistcoat fit is also critical because if you can see even the slightest peep of white shirt at the waist, the look is ruined. High-waisted trousers, by the same token, are a must. If the fit is perfect, then the variables you have to play with to make a bold impression concern the waistcoat, tie and pocket square. Silk or linen waistcoats create a nice textural contrast, and don’t be afraid to opt for bold colours or patterns. We’d always recommend opting for a tie in a contrasting yet complementary colour to the waistcoat, so something like a pastel pink waistcoat with a navy polka dot tie, or an olive green waistcoat with a gold or bronze tie. If the colours are too similar, the look just doesn’t pop.

OB: I’ve been lucky enough to have had Favourbrook guiding my morning suit choices at previous Royal Ascots but for any morning dress first-timers, any advice to feel confident?

OS: Confidence comes from fit and preparation so get that booked in early. As stupid as you might feel, I’d recommend practicing wearing your top hat at home, because you don’t want to be constantly readjusting it all day. Tilt it slightly forward for the best aspect. They are a couple of additional embellishments you can add to the look: a small boutonniere, tie pin, or fob chain are nice personal touches, but pick one rather than all of them. The last bit of confidence comes from drinking a bottle of champagne before the first race has even started.